There have been a number of deaths on Island Peak in recent years because of three things. Firstly, lack of physical preparation. Secondly, lack of adequate acclimatization and thirdly, poor technical ability. These three things are leading to people taking risks beyond their ability. This puts everyone on the mountain at risk.
Your Island Peak Checklist
If you are looking to climb Island peak, here are some things you need to make your team has in place in order to make a safe and successful ascent of Island peak. You need to consider all these items before signing up to a trip like this. Here is our page with all our most important Island peak links and information.
1). Make sure you have a fully qualified climbing guide furthermore have climbing Sherpa’s who can fix ropes and manage your safety correctly.
2). Make sure your team have their own private ropes to fix high on Island peak.
3). Make sure you have two nights acclimatizing in Island Peak Base Camp prior to your ascent. You should also be using high camp.
4). Make sure your team has a high camp set at 5,500m/ 18,000 feet for your ascent on the summit.
5). Make sure you have adequate training with all equipment before leaving Island peak base camp.
6). Make sure your team has 250m of private fixed rope for climbing safely in addition, to the main rope for glacier travel.
7). Make sure you have 1:2/3 ratio of guides to clients
8). Make sure you have some mountaineering experience because, Island Peak is a mountaineering peak.
9). Make sure you have previous altitude experience
10). Make sure you don’t use the already attached fixed lines. If you are make sure a climbing Sherpa goes ahead of you to make sure they are secure. I have witnessed anchors coming out time and time again.
Island Peak Experts
Safety First
On my recent Island Peak climbs I witnessed some shocking safety procedures in particular, by some local trekking companies. I spoke to a lot of people coming past us on the route to the summit, all rushing and not pacing themselves. They were coming straight from base camp. They had no ropes and no idea why they would need them. I also witnessed a number accidents on the way down, with too many people completely wasted. I have had to help people get helicoptered out because of falls on numerous occasions.
It is never a good thing when people are using Jumar’s to descend the mountain to clarify, a Jumar is only meant for the ascent. There were a massive number of people using the already dangerous fixed ropes to pull themselves up the mountain. I witnessed 18 people on one anchor point which is crazy and I can assure you this is not safe.